If you find that the manual windscreen washer pump is not very effective, it's a fairly simple matter to fit an electric pump and bring your 2CV into the 21st century!.You will need a "stand alone" pump (i.e. not one which fits in the washer bottle) and a spring loaded toggle switch which returns to the 'OFF' position when it's released. Readily available from the usual motorist accessory shops the total cost should be less than 20.
First thing to do is remove the old manual pump by unscrewing the plastic button and then the nut behind it. The pump can now be removed from behind the instrument panel. This is straighforward on cars with the small instrument panel (Dollies and Specials) but if you have the larger speedometer type (Clubs and Charlestons) it will be necessary to loosen the instrument panel (five crosshead screws) and pull it forward far enough to reach behind and remove the pump.
Once you can get to the back of the pump, remove the two plastic tubes, remembering that the tubing and pump will be full of water. It may be easier to cut the tubes near the nozzles rather than trying to pull them off the pump as the nozzles are apt to break. (Later on you can immerse the old pump in hot water which will soften the tubing, making it easier to remove without damage to the pump). Lift the bonnet and pull the tubing through the bulkhead.
Now decide where your electric pump is to be mounted. This should be as close to the washer bottle as possible. The picture on the left shows a bracket made out of 10mm aluminium strip bent into a right angle with a 5mm hole drilled at each end. One end is located under the screw holding the washer bottle support. The pump is attached to the other end of the strip with an M5 nut and bolt. You can use this for the earth (-ve) wire from the pump.
You now need to wire up the live feed (+ve) to the pump. The pump terminals should be marked + and -. It is important to connect them correctly. The positive feed should only be live when the ignition is turned on. We used a two-way adaptor on the live feed to the wiper switch as shown in the diagram. On wiper switches with two terminals the one you need will have a spade connector in a mauve plastic insulator (although this may have faded and appear nearly white). Later cars had wiper switches with three terminals - the live one usually had a blue connector.
Now connect the plastic tubing, warming it in hot water if necessary to make it more pliable to fit the nozzles of the new pump without too much force. The pump will be marked as to which nozzle takes the feed from the washer bottle and which is the supply nozzle to the spray on the bonnet.
You should now be able to turn on the ignition, press the toggle switch and get a spray on the screen. If you can't hear the pump working, check that the terminal which you used on the wiper switch is permanently live when the ignition is on. You may need a meter to locate the one you need if your wires aren't coloured as above. It is almost certain that you will have to adjust the aim of the washer spray on the bonnet as the water will be coming out at far higher pressure than the manual pump could ever achieve.
Take the new wire (red in the diagram) from the two-way adaptor to one of the toggle switch terminals. The wire from the other terminal on the switch goes to the +ve pump terminal through the hole in the bulkhead where the plastic tubing used to be. The toggle switch can be mounted in the hole where the old manual pump was mounted although you may have to enlarge the hole slightly depending on the size of the switch you chose.
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