SECTION 3 - DISCONNECTIONS

The following items which all, in some way, connect from body to chassis must now be disconnected. When cables and wires are disconnected they should be coiled up neatly so that they do not get in the way when removing/refitting the body. The metal heater tubes on the bulkhead are a useful place to hang them.
1 Disconnect accelerator cable from carburettor.
2 Disconnect choke cable from carburettor.
3 Disconnect the front wiring loom at the joiners on the lamp bar and from the alternator and starter motor. Remove the various ties and clips which locate the loom to air filter box etc.
4 Disconnect speedometer cable from gearbox. When you withdraw the cable, the plastic sleeve and drive cogs may come with it in which case replace them in the gearbox. Plug the hole with a piece of cloth.
5 Disconnect the hand brake lever by removing 'R' clip and pin where the rod from inside the car connects to the lever from the chassis.
6 _______________________ at the clutch end, coil it back to bulkhead and secure out of the way or disconnect it from the pedal and remove it completely.
REPLACING A 2CV CHASSIS (Page 1/3)
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FOREWORD
The following procedure is a step by step guide to replacing the chassis on a 2CV. The general principles are the same for a Dyane but there will be some differences which are not covered here. Read the whole article and then decide whether a chassis change is within your capabilities and whether you have the necessary facilities and tools. Limitations on the length of this guide mean that we cannot go into detail as regards removing various parts leading up to the removal of the body from the old chassis. Removal of engine and gearbox is obviously necessary but is not covered in any detail so if you have never removed them before think carefully before proceeding, possibly referring to one of the well known workshop manuals which cover these operations.

You will almost certainly encounter problems with corrosion which you were previously unaware of and you should be prepared for extra expenditure to replace or repair items which may entail welding and/or special tools. In particular, there is little point in putting the body on a new chassis if it is likely that you will have to remove it again in the near future to repair items which are inaccessible with the body in place. At the end of the section is a list of some of the snags we encountered. If everything goes smoothly we estimate that a chassis change should take around 20 man hours but difficulties in dismantling corroded parts will mean a much longer job.
SECTION 1 - PREPARATION

You will need plenty of space as at some stage you will have two chassis, a body shell and various other large components to find a home for, some of which should be under cover as you are unlikely to complete the change in one day. We suggest you obtain a supply of plastic bags in which small items such as nuts and bolts can be kept, duly labelled as to where they came from, ready for re-assembly. A supply of new nuts, bolts and washers to replace old rusty ones will be useful, particularly size M7. You will also need the assistance of at least one other person when it comes to lifting the body from the old chassis and on to the new one. No special tools are essential but the special spanner for the 46mm suspension nuts may be better than a wrench. If other problems with the car are encountered during the course of the chassis replacement, then special tools may be required to put them right but precisely what may be needed cannot be forecast.

SECTION 2 - GETTING STARTED

The following items MUST be removed from the car:-
The battery (store in a safe place), all the seats, carpets/rubber mats, both front wings and valance panels, and the bonnet.

In order to make the body lighter for lifting we suggest the following are also removed:-
All four doors, boot lid and roof. Removal of the rear wings will further contribute to reducing weight but the four screws at the front of each wing may be difficult to remove and so you may decide to leave them in place.
7 Disconnect both brake pipes from master cylinder. Be prepared to catch fluid or plug both holes to avoid fluid getting on paintwork.
8 Loosen the clamp at the base of the steering column, loosen the _______________ and pull the column clear of the pinion shaft on the axle tube. Completely removing the shaft, complete with steering wheel, is probably the best option.
9 Separate the connection between the gear lever which comes from inside the car and the lever from the gearbox.
10 Disconnect the head lamp height adjuster from the lamp bar and withdraw from inside the car.
11 Remove all 4 cardboard heater tubes.
12 Disconnect heater control cable from left hand heat exchanger.
13 Disconnect the _________ pipe from the primary silencer (cross box) and remove, all in one piece, the front pipe (swan neck), secondary silencer (torpedo) and tailpipe from beneath the floor.
14 On the nearside inner rear wing, beneath trim material, disconnect the join in the wire from the fuel tank sender unit and remove the foam sleeve where the wire goes through the floor. Push the disconnected end through the hole in the floor.
15 If the rear fog light is bolted to the rear chassis leg or bumper, disconnect its wire and pull it up through the hole in the boot floor and into the boot.
16 If you have not removed the rear wings you will need to remove the fuel filler neck from the tank and plug the tank filler neck with a piece of cloth.
17 Remove both bumpers complete with their mounting brackets.
The above items assume the car is in standard form but there may be items which have been added to the car which may have to be removed if they will prevent separation of the body from the chassis. This would include rear seat belts bolted through the floor beneath the rear seat into the 'bridge'.
You are now ready to loosen the body from the chassis. The lamp bar, engine and gearbox (complete with drive shafts) should now be removed. There is insufficient space to cover this in detail here but the procedure is covered in various workshop manuals if you have never done it before.
SECTION 4 - REMOVING THE BODY FROM THE CHASSIS

The bolts holding the body to a genuine Citroen chassis all have 11mm heads. They screw into threaded clips on the side rails of the chassis. It won't matter if any of the heads sheer off but if the bolts are seized in the clips it may be necessary to hold the clip with a mole grip or as a last resort grind the head off the bolt.

First remove all the bolts on the inside edges of both sides of the floor, using either an 11mm socket or ring spanner. There are usually nine bolts on each side but this can vary. There are two more bolts at the back of the boot floor which should be removed. Next remove the two bolts beneath the back seat - these usually go through very large washers and screw into threads in the 'bridge', the frame which is bolted to the chassis and straddles the fuel tank. Finally, remove the bolts from the four outriggers. These are located under black plastic covers in the middle of each floor panel. Lift the covers out and use an 11mm socket with an extension to remove the bolts.

The body is now ready to lift off the chassis but have a final check round to see if there is anything else which could stop it being lifted or which will get in the way when it's removed. You should now rock the body from side to side to loosen it from the chassis as over the years it will have become stuck on the foam between it and the chassis. You will be able to see when the floor panels start to separate from top plate of the chassis.

You now need the assistance of at least one other pair of hands. With one of you grasping the body at the back (on the apron below the number plate panel) and the other on the front holding the join between upper and lower bulkhead panels, lift the body to the desired side and rest it on the ground.

An alternative method of removal is to jack the body up off the chassis and support it on two strong beams, one running beneath the A pillars, the other beneath the boot floor, resting on axle stands. If the beams are sufficiently far apart and high enough it should be possible to roll the chassis out from underneath the body.

The body should ideally be stored under cover until you are ready to fit it to the new chassis. You should inspect its underside by placing it on axle stands if it is not already on them and consider whether any panels need repair or replacement, particularly those parts which are inaccessible when the body is on the chassis. Clean off any corrosion and loose underseal and apply your favoured anti-rust treatment or paint. Bear in mind that the more time you spend on this now the less likely the need to remove the body again.
SECTION 5 - TRANSFERRING COMPONENTS FROM OLD CHASSIS TO THE NEW ONE

You must now start transferring all the fitments from the old chassis to the new one. Clean, treat or paint each item as necessary before fitting it to the new chassis. Raise the new chassis on four axle stands.
1 The four rubber bump stops from the front of the chassis should be transferred. The nuts may not undo without the bolts turning in which case prise the rubber from the mountings and put a socket on the bolt head to hold it. Clean the threads or use a new bolt and press the rubber back into the housing before fitting to the new chassis.
2 Remove the rubber inner wing clips from the front legs of the old chassis. Fit them to the new chassis. Some replacement chassis do not have the necessary slots in which case, if the inner wings flap about, you will have to improvise.
Disconnect the clutch cable
steering lock
exhaust
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THE WESSEX DUCKS
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